Close but not too close

Bra number 3.

I think I did a much better job of sewing this bra  HOWEVER COMMA it still doesn’t fit. Sigh.

The things I changed:

  • One size larger – Cup size
  • Used medium weight powernet in addition to lycra fabric for band and side cup
  • Downward hike adjustment (1.5 inches) for band.  This worked wonderfully.  My band is wider and more comfortable now.

Fitting issues:

  • I think the cups are still too small.  The underwires stick out from my chest. When I make the next bra, I’ll be using the largest cup size!  I hope it fits. See bullet point 3 in other issues.
  • I don’t seem to get much support from the straps.  They are too far apart for me.
  • I used 3/4 inch plush back elastic for the band.  I added the correct seam allowance on all the pattern pieces but the band folds. I think 3/4 inch is too big and I’ll use 5/8 inch elastic the next time.

Other issues:

  • I’ve been using double fold medium weight Lycra for the cups.  The cups are too stretchy.  I’ve ordered a Basic Bra Kit from Needle Nook.  The Lycra is heavier.  I’ll use a double layer for this fabric for the next bra.
  • The lower cup seems to have too much height.  I don’t want to change the pattern yet.  Changing to the heavier lycra might take care of this.
  • I’m so glad that I bought a variety of under wires.  When I used one set of under wires, the top of the band pulled away from my chest.  It looked as if the cups were too small.  On a whim, I tried another pair of under wires and WHAT A DIFFERENCE!  I’ll use the Flex-Lite Under wires Item 927-22 (48B,46C, 44D, 42DD) from Sew Sassy Fabrics.  Might need to change my construction  and have the channeling go all the way to the under arm elastic. My channeling is a little too short.
  • I don’t know why I didn’t sew the elastic correctly for the rings in the back.  Maybe I was just sleepy.  It’s never wise to sew when sleepy.

You know, sewing the bra isn’t all that hard.  Getting a bra that fits.   Well…that’s totally different 🙂  I’m not giving up.

I believe I’m going to break down and buy

Explore posts in the same categories: bra, muslin, Sewing

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3 Comments on “Close but not too close”

  1. CGCouture Says:

    Hi! I’m working on bras too! I’m so close, but it’s going to take one more try to get it right I think. Making a bra can be a bit tedious, but you’ll be so glad you stuck it out when you get it right. 🙂

  2. causeiwanna Says:

    Good luck with your bra CGCouture. I’m not giving up on the bra. I’m determined to develop a TNT(tired and true) bra pattern 🙂 Please keep me posted on your bra.

  3. kristinm100 Says:

    Man, I’m so glad to know I’m not the only one! Bras are SO tough to fit. I’ve gone up sizes, down sizes, modified sizes, you name it, but the patterns I’ve got just don’t work with the shape of my breasts. That’s why I’m really hoping with my RTW-rip-up experiment!

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