It’s been a while since I’ve posted about a garment project. I have actually been sewing. Mostly, muslins of New Look 6899 view D skirt. I’ve been working on fitting. My skirts ride up in the back. I HATE that look. I’ve had this problem all my life. At first, I thought it was a rear end issue:) Yes, I do have a big ‘ole butt 🙂 But focusing on my rear end (that didn’t sound right) will not solve my fitting issue. I had to look higher. I had to focus on my waistline…yike! I have a slanted waist. The picture below shows the difference.
One day, I tied a piece of elastic around my waist and looked in the mirror slope of my waistline. I knew from the sewing class it took in the spring that my center back to the floor measurement was longer than my center front to the floor measurement. But until I saw a visual of my waistline by doing the What not to wear 360 degree mirror check, I didn’t get it. My waistline is not parallel to the floor. Who knew?
The picture doesn’t show that the hem is even but it is! Finally, after about a bazillion muslins! I used the Worksheet from Burda World of Fashion January 2005 titled, “Adjusting for a hem rising at the back”. This would have been an easy fix, if I’d had my correct measurements.
You will have to have a friend help you with the measurements. Basically, you measure center front, center back and both sides. If you join the Burda English yahoo group, you can view the directions RisingHem.pdf look at the dark blue box on the left of the page. This is a great site even if you don’t plan to sew a Burda pattern.
Now that I have the correct measurement and I’ve made adjustments to the pattern. Piece 13 is used for the front and back. When I made adjustments, I made a pattern for the front and a pattern for the back. For the front, I had to remove 2 1/8 inches. (See the blue note on pattern)
Piece 13 New Look 6899 View D
For the back, I added 1 1/8 inches (in red). I also added a center back seam.
Piece 13 New Look 6899 view D
There’s a 3 1/4 inch difference from front to back at my waistline! No wonder the skirts I made always were always short in the back.
Now that the pattern is all adjusted, I’ve decided to work on another skirt. New Look 6899 suggested fabrics are lightweight (linens, cottons, and poplins to name a few). It’s getting a little cooler in Atlanta and I want to sew fall/winter clothing. I’m glad I took the time to make the adjustments because when spring hits, I’ll have a pattern all ready to go.
I’m now working on McCall’s 3830 view C skirt. I used the adjustments I made in the New Look 6899 to make a muslin of the 3830 pattern and it works beautifully. I’ve cut out the fashion fabric (lightweight brown wool) and I hope to sew it this weekend.
I hope everyone has a great sewing weekend.