Tissue Fitting

I’ve had the book Fit for Real People by Pati Palmer & Marta Alto for at least two years.  I’ve used a few of the pattern alteration techniques in the book but I’ve never tried to tissue fit.  Tissue fitting just didn’t appeal to me until last week.

I’ve been having problems with my sleeves …or so I thought.  I raised the armscye (armhole) on the pattern make yet another muslin that didn’t fix the problem.  This was my 3rd or 4th muslin mind you.  Then, I decided to try tissue fitting.  I read pages 29, 30, 76-81.  I also watched Marcy Tilton’s Tissue Fit youtube videos and Gertie’s Tissue Fitting YouTube videos.  I tried on my altered pattern and realized that the pattern didn’t reach my center back.  Hmmmm.  Now, I have narrow shoulders and apparently a wide back who knew?  I did not use the alteration technique in Fit for Real People because I would have had to add more length at the shoulders where I don’t need it.  So, I added the width to back at the neckline and created a center back seam.  I don’t know if this will work because I’ve added length to the neck.  I also looked in my Vogue Sewing book for back alterations.  They show a shoulder dart.  I’ve never seen one on my ready to wear blouses.  Adding a shoulder dart might be the way to go. 

Okay so even with the added width, I’m still having trouble with the right sleeve.  It’s a miracle that I didn’t rip that muslin off and set it on fire last night.  I’m so freakin’ frustrated!!!!

Wadder – Butterick 5047 Camp Shirt & Great thread tracing video

Wadder

I did a FBA on Butterick 5047 camp shirt and all I can say is ugh.  The bottom became really flared and the shirt made me look quite matronly.  That’s NOT the look I’m going for just yet.

All isn’t lost though, I did learn to match stripes with this pattern.  I also raised the armscye with this pattern.  I think I’m going to do that with Vogue 7903.

I’m still need to learn how to fit sleeves.    I”m going to work on Vogue 7903.  I’ve already made the following changes to the pattern:

an FBA

shortened shoulder seam

add length to shirt

I hope to figure  this sleeve thing out soon.  I found the article “20 ways to Improve Your Sewing” from the Threads website.  I’m going to try Number 13.   I probably need to print the article and hang it up in my sewing room

Thread Tracing Video

I’ve heard of thread tracing and even seen examples of thread tracing from blogger like Tany and Ann.  I had no clue how to do it.  I found this video from Otis College and it really helped.  Thread tracing is the last of the three types of hand stitching shown.

I’m really glad their on YouTube.  I would love to take a class there.

I think I will still have to use tracing paper or chalk to mark the lines and dots when doing thread tracing…especially for muslins.

Question?

So do any of you do thread tracing and do you still have to tracing pattern markings with chalk or tracing paper?

Not right…

I made a muslin of Butterick 5047 camp shirt using striped fabric.  The goal was to figure out how to match stripes and find an easy shirt pattern.   I think I did figure out stripes.

I had to cut out one sleeve and front – twice.    That’s okay because I had more than enough fabric.

What isn’t right is the fit.

1.  I’m going to have to do a FBA.  That means adding a bust dart.  The pattern already has fisheye darts and I don’t know how to rotate the bust dart.

2. My biceps are big.  I’m going to have to add more fabric.  This is kinda of depressing because this means I’ve gained weight   I don’t know how to alter sleeves.

I’m debating…should I put this pattern aside and go back to the Vogue 7903 pattern I was working on last year.  With the Vogue 7903, I have the fit in the bust figured out.  It was the sleeves that was kicking my rear.

The Butterick pattern is simple to make.  It helped that I had Connie Crawford’s book Guide to Fashion Sewing (3rd edition).  The pattern instructions on attaching the collar made no sense to me.  The book has great drawings.  I also had Ms. Crawford’s DVD Studio Sewing Skills Volume 4 which features the 5047 pattern.  Do I want to mess with the fit?

Decisions, decisions.

Well… look at this!

This post was supposed to show up on my blog on Monday.  What can I say…operator error.

I decided it was time to brave the snow and ice and actually walk to my mailbox.  I know.  I know.  If you’re in the northeast or mid-west portion of the United States then you’re laughing at the 1 to 1 1/2 inches of snow  but snow is fine, ice  isn’t.  Anyway, I went to my mailbox and here’s what arrived.

I love it.  The original “How Much Fabric Reference Cards” are going directly into my wallet.  I know I’ll use it again and again. I buy fabric for an item from a specific pattern but I haven’t been sewing enough to know exactly how much fabric I need for say jackets or pants in general.  I either buy too much or too little when I guess.  I know these cards will change that.  The cards are in my purse.  Gwen is a genius!

Simplicity 2598 View E Knit Top

Simplicity 2598 Knit Top

Pattern Description: Women’s Knit top and Cardi-Wrap with Front Variations.  This is the plus size version of Simplicity 2603

Pattern Sizing: 18W to 32 W

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes

Were the instructions easy to follow? Sort of.  I follow Ann’s blog (Gorgeous Fabrics).  She blogged about the instructions to attach the collar band and I like her instructions.  They made more sense to me.  You can find her tutorial here.

Here’s a closeup of my collar band.

I also follow Pam’s blog (Off The Cuff ~Sewing Style~).  She blogged about hemming knits.  You can find her tutorial here – scroll down to 01/01/2009 entry Perfect Hems Every Time!  Using Pam’s tutorial enabled me to hem the top with getting the tunneling that I usually get when I sew knit fabric.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? The pattern is simple and using Ann’s and Pam’s tutorials made it a breeze.

Fabric Used: Poly/Rayon Knit from Gail K’s in Atlanta

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: Other than using the tutorials mentioned above, I still had to do a FBA.  I think I need to more adjusting on the FBA.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Yes.  I like the wide shoulders which cover bra straps.

Conclusion: A great pattern and good wardrobe builder for the spring and summer.

Hemming Knit Top

Puckers on Knit hem

(click on photos to enlarge)

This post is a reminder for me and to document how I got a pucker-free hem for Simplicity 2598 View E top.

First, I used Pam’s tutorial (scroll down to 01/04/2009 entry Perfect Hems Every Time!)

I used 1 1/2 inch hem so I cut the Sulky Solvy in 1 1/2 inch rolls and fused. I practiced on a scrap of fashion fabric and I’m glad I did. The first attempt produced puckers. I tried it again using my walking foot and that worked. It’s hard to tell that there are puckers in the hem but believe me there are.

Here’s what I learned. If I want the hems on my knit garment to look great.

1. Use Sulky Solvy and Pam’s tutorial.
2. Use my walking foot

Parting Shot:

Sherried Tomato Soup and Buttermilk Cornbread

It’s very cold here in Atlanta. The forecast call for SNOW!  Dinner tonight is left over Sherried Tomato Soup and Buttermilk Cornbread (that I almost burned because I was writing this post.) Note to shelf – don’t cook and sewing at the same time.

The best tomato soup ever!!!

I made Sherried Tomato Soup from the Pioneer Woman. OMG!!!! It’s soooooo goooddddd. I can’t stop eating it. It’s definitely going in my dinner/lunch rotation. YUMMY!!!

Original Sewing & Quilting Expo 2010 – Atlanta

Merry Christmas and Happy New Year!

I hope y’all had a great time during the holidays. I completed a lot of things around the house which put a stop to all sewing! I have been keeping up with my favorite sewing and knitting blogs

To celebrate finishing the things on my to-do list for the holidays, I registered for the Original Sewing and Quilting Expo in Atlanta. I’m so excited. I sighed up for 5 classes again this year. I learned my lesson last year and signed up for classes early. I got all five classes that I wanted I will try to do a day by day update like I did last year. If you’re thinking about going to the Expo this year, sign up early to get your classes.

See ya.

Let’s try that again

This morning, I decided to rip out part of the neck band and try it again.  Ripping out serger seams is no fun at all but I couldn’t stand the way the neck band looked.   I hope this go around, my work will be better.

Oh Crap!

I so totally screwed up Simplicity 2598 view E.  The good news is this is a test run.  The bad news is I made obvious mistakes.  First, I forgot to use a ball point needle.  DUH!  Then the band…well let’s just say eeewww.  I’m using Ann’s wonderful instructions which are much better than Simplicity’s instructions.   I wonder if I stretched the band.

Maybe I should have used my walking foot to attach the ban.  I have way too many pinches in the band.  Looking at the picture, I think I need to go up a size.

I still haven’t tried finishing the armhole.  I’d better try it cause there’s no tell what I’ll do to them.

Oh well, tomorrow is another day and I have more knit fabric.